Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
